Storm Flowers Garden visits The Orangery

When you think of urban farming, Central London is probably one of the last places that comes to mind. Yet beneath one of the city’s busiest streets lies a hidden farm unlike any other. This is The Orangery, one of the world’s first hydroponic farms to be fully integrated into a commercial building.

Upon entering the restaurant, the connection between food and farming is clear. A tall, vertical growing system (created by Square Mile Farms) is built into the café walls, giving visitors an insight into where their food is from. Downstairs, the scale of the operation is something else entirely. Covering a staggering 1.1 acres (around a quarter of a football pitch) the underground farm grows more than 35,000 plants year-round and brings a whole new meaning to farm to table cooking.

“It’s an innovative way to grow fresh greens and herbs,” says Idris Odusanya, the site’s Community Manager. “Our hydroponic system saves up to 90% of the water used in conventional farming, and we operate on 40% renewable energy.”

Storm Flowers: Can you tell us about hydroponic farming and how it differs from regular farming?

Hydroponics might sound futuristic, but the concept is surprisingly straightforward. Rather than growing in soil, plants are rooted in coir fibres and fed by a nutrient-rich water solution that delivers everything they need to thrive. Seeds begin life in a dedicated nursery before being transferred into the vertical growing systems, where water is pumped continuously through the plants. Most crops are ready to harvest within 6 to 8 weeks.

"It's perfect for city environments," Idris explains. "You use less space, less water, and because the growing conditions are controlled, you can grow all year round regardless of what's happening outside."

The result is vegetable produce that travels just metres than miles. Lettuce, Idris points out, can travel over 1,000 miles before reaching a supermarket shelf. Here, it's harvested on site before making the five-metre journey to the kitchen.

The Orangery hosts underground Chef's Table sessions within their farm, where guests can dine amongst the greens and really immerse themselves within their ‘secret garden’.  During our visit we sampled Mexican Marigold, a delicate leafy herb with an unexpectedly sweet, almost fruity flavour. Freshly picked, its intensity was a reminder of just how much flavour can be preserved when produce is harvested moments before it's served.

Storm Flowers: Since you can control the growing conditions all year, how do you add seasonal surprises to the menu?

"Our farm works in tandem with the chefs," says Idris. "We can grow virtually any cut greens we want (within reason!), so the chefs can really play around with flavour and experiment with new dishes."

Planning still plays an important role. The Orangery’s team of experts, some with degrees in farm production and agriculture, and others with hands-on experience in hydroponics and sustainable farming, are dedicated to running the farm smoothly.

While lettuce may be ready in just a few weeks, introducing a completely new ingredient takes time, with crops scheduled well in advance to coincide with seasonal menu launches. Community Harvesting takes place twice a week, with everything heading straight to the kitchen.

Storm Flowers: The Orangery has a special approach to community – can you tell us about the activities you're involved in?

For Idris, the farm isn't just about producing food. "It's really special to have created a cross-functional space like this," he says, "community is at the forefront of our values."

Throughout the year, The Orangery hosts yoga sessions, wellness events, cooking and dinner etiquette classes, workshops for local schools and guided farm tours to help people learn about growing their own food and eating healthily. New walking groups are also in development, to reconnect the local community with where their food comes from. "It's about creating a lively, supportive space where everyone can learn, share and grow together."

The Orangery challenges everything we think we know about farming. As we step back onto the busy streets of Tottenham Court Road, it's hard to believe that thousands of plants are growing beneath our feet. The Orangery is a shining example of what's possible when innovation meets ambition, proving that even in the heart of one of the world's busiest cities, there is always room to grow. It's an inspiring vision of the future of farming and what our cities could become.

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With thanks to Idris Odusanya for his time and for showing us around the farm

The Orangery TCR
81 New Oxford St, London WC1A 1DG

Open Monday – Sunday, visit their website to book your table https://www.orangerytcr.com